Wildspitze

The Wildspitze

The Wildspitze is the highest peak in the province of Tyrol, the highest elevation in the Ötztal Alps and the second highest peak in Austria after the Großglockner (3798 m). The altitude of the Wildspitze is given in current maps as 3770 metres above sea level.

Location

The Wildspitze lies in the Ötztal main ridge. The south and east sides of the Wildspitze slope down into the Venter Valley. The north and west flanks slope towards the Pitztal valley. The Wildspitze has two summits. The rocky south peak and the firny north peak. Both summits are connected by a firn ridge.

Impressive is the Schartenhöhe of the Wildspitze. It is 2263 metres. This puts the Wildspitze in fourth place in the Alps, surpassed only by the Finsteraarhorn, the Großglockner and Mont Blanc. The Schartenhöhe, or prominence, indicates how low you would have to descend from the summit to reach the next highest peak.

Accesses

The normal route leads in summer and winter (Ski Tour Wildspitze) via the southwest ridge to the summit. You reach the south-west ridge from the firn basin north of the Mitterkarjoch. The firn basin can be reached via the Mitterkarjoch from Vent or from the Breslauer Hütte, from the Pitztal Glacier Ski Area (via the Mittelbergjoch) or from Taschachaus via the Taschachferner. Other routes run along the south-east ridge from the Ötztal Urkund, through the north face or along the north-east ridge ("Jubiläumsgrat").

Climbing history

The south summit of the Wildspitze was first climbed in 1848 by Leander Klotz from Vent. Leander Klotz was a farmer from Rofen who was unknown to alpinists until then. He was also responsible for the ascent of the then still higher north peak in 1861.

Support points

Brunswick Hut, 2759 m , www.braunschweiger-huette.at/
Taschachhaus, 2434 m, www.taschachhaus.com
Breslau Hut, 2844 m, www.breslauerhuette.at